How delicious is my coffee? It is FABULOUS in my new automated espresso machine by Nespresso! For my birthday, my family treated me to this new appliance after I had sampled the coffee several times. I have the “Essenza” model which came with a separate “aeroccino” for warming and frothing milk for capuccino’s.
The espresso comes out with a beautiful “crema” on the top and is so flavorful. The milk froths beautifully in the aeroccino – all in all, it’s the perfect start to my day!
When my mom was a little girl in Italy, long before the world of the internet and fast airplanes, whenever someone wanted to say “get lost” they would say “vai a California” (go to California!). Back then, California was as far away as the moon! Luckily, technology has improved and Italy and California are just a 13-15 hour plane ride away. You can wake up in California and go to sleep in Italy (or vice versa). The world has become a much smaller place. We can SKYPE with our loved ones on the other side of the world – see their faces – hear their voices! It’s a true wonder 
Even though the world is much smaller, travelling back and forth between Italy and California takes time and money. It’s not something that we can do on a routine basis – it still remains a special trip and one that takes planning. Luckily, though, I have many reminders of Italy in my own vicinities!
Excellent Italian Restaurants rivalling those found in Italy
Wonderful Enoteca’s serving Italian wines
Beautiful Italian architecture
Villa Montalvo, Saratoga CA
Shops selling Italian products
Italian Fashion Houses
Gucci at Santana Row
An old recipe, handed down through the generations….
A dried piece of stoccafisso (the best kind of dried codfish to use)….
Three days of patient waiting…
Voila!
Baccala’!
My mom’s family hailed from the Veneto region of Italy where Baccala’ recipes originated. Served on top of polenta, it was a poor man’s delight during those cold nights of winter. Families always had a dried piece of cod in their pantry…it kept forever and they knew that they could follow their “Fish on Friday” mandate of the Church in case fresh fish wasn’t available. I guess they were better dinner planners in those days because in order to prepare the Baccala’, they needed at least three days!
Just last week, my Italian cousin found this recipe and was inspired to make it! This version is known as Baccala’ Ragno!
The first thing he had to do was beat the dried fish with a piece of wood. This breaks up the tough fibers and softens it a bit.
When the poor dried fish was beaten, it got soaked in water for three days, changing the water a few times a day.
Here is a translation of the above recipe – I didn’t translate word for word to make the recipe read better in English!
1. Beat the baccala’ wrapped up in a rag (with a stick or a meat pounder).
2. Submerse it in cold water for 3 days – changing the water 2 times per day.
3. Skin it and remove the spine. Cut it into clean pieces.
4. Saute 1 minced onion, 3 chopped garlic cloves, and a handful of chopped parsley in some olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste. (Optional: add 3 or 4 salted and chopped sardines).
5. Add the baccala’ and 1 1/2 cups white wine. Add a vegetable bouillon cube and simmer for a while.
6. Add some water and cook slowly for about 3 hours. Occasionally add some wine or water so that it doesn’t dry out.
7. Halfway through the cooking, add 2 cups of milk.
8. When it is almost done, add some grated Parmesan or Grana cheese and some more milk if needed to make a creamy consistency.
Technology is wonderful….He could share the cooking process with me almost instantly….but, sadly, it hasn’t evolved yet to the point where I can actually taste a bite of this delicious family recipe! Buon appetito!
When I was in Italy earlier this month, I ventured into a book store in Milan and went straight to the cookbook section. I wanted to see if there was a simple cookbook which gave great down-to-earth recipes for the simple foods created in Italy. As I’ve mentioned before, I love Italian food because it is so simple – the ingredients are genuine and the taste is not too “messy”. I found not one, but two, cookbooks which struck my fancy. The first one was “La Cucina Milanese”…and this one had so many recipes in it that my mom cooks that is was like home to me I was even surprised to find a chapter on Lumache e Rane (snails and frogs)! Now, I’m not that adventurous but I guess these are widely eaten in the Milan area (I don’t think I’ve ever had them, though..thankfully!). The other cookbook was “La Cucina Borghese”. This book features recipes that are cooked in the countryside and with simple ingredients. I have been experimenting with these books since I’ve been home and have discovered some twists on old recipes as well as some new recipes! One of the new ones I tried was the Puttanesca sauce for spaghetti! Of course, I’ve heard of this sauce but I’m not sure I ever really tried it. The term comes from the Roman “ladies of the evening” and I think it’s named this way because the sauce has a bit of a kick to it! It’s a funny name for a sauce that is absolutely delicious. My version has an omission in it – olives! I like olives by themselves, but I’m not crazy about them in a sauce. But, if you are an olive lover, by all means, add them in!
Pasta alla Puttanesca
1. Saute 2 cloves of garlic and about 1/2 t. red pepper flakes (add more if you like it hotter) in 1/4 cup olive oil.
2. Crumble a can of tuna and add 5 chopped up anchovy fillets. Mix them up and add them to the garlic and oil mixture.
3. Cook them a few minutes. Add about 1 1/2 cups of marinara sauce and cook until the sauce is warmed.
4. Add 1/4 cup drained capers and mix gently.
5. Pour over 1 lb. of cooked spaghetti. Top with some grated parmesan cheese, if desired. ENJOY!!!
On my last morning in Milan, as I was heading down the elevator to grab a bite to eat, I noticed a poster inside the elevator talking about terrace dining at the hotel. Curious, I went in search of this peaceful paradise in this busy city. The terrace was on the rooftop and truly an oasis of tranquility. I grabbed a table and ordered my usual capuccino and marmalade filled croissant and sat peacefully taking in the fresh crisp air of the morning.
Refreshed and ready to tackle the city bustle, I headed out to catch the Metro! Feeling like a pro navigating the city, I found myself in Piazza Duomo once more determined to come away with some fashion purchases. This time I headed in the opposite direction from Via Montenapoleone to the “lower rent” district ( if there is such a thing in Milan), and, to my surprise, I found several “normal” stores! I must have been in a shopping mood, so I was VERY successful! In one of the shops, I even met an Italian pianist who will be performing at The Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco later this month – and she invited me to her performance! What a small world we truly live in!
Loaded with packages, I had to quit my shopping expedition to head back to the hotel for my ride back to Ispra. My cousin surprised me with the notice that he had taken the afternoon off from work so that we could do something together. What to do? We had about four hours to explore…so we decided to take a detour to Lake Como! The only other time I had visited Lake Como was in winter – it was beautiful, but not exactly tourist weather. We parked a bit out of the center of Como and began our trek towards the lakefront promenade. We passed my favorite little alleyways that I’m always so attracted to when I visit Italy. Tiny little winding alleys, with cobblestones underfoot and gorgeous old buildings with flowers hanging off the balconies, make me think of all the millions of people over the centuries that have walked these same steps! Explaining this fascination to my cousin, he said that, unfortunately for them, who have always lived surrounded by these ancient environs, they don’t even think twice about the historical beauty that surrounds them. I think I may have opened his eyes!
After passing gorgeous piazzas filled with outdoor eating, we arrived at the lake’s edge.
We found a beautiful little restaurant and enjoyed some wonderful pasta and a cool glass of wine. I couldn’t have been happier – al fresco dining in a gorgeous setting with a spectacular view, great food, and good company! Now this is my idea of La Bella Vita! Even though I didn’t get any George Clooney sitings, it was the perfect day!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Milan, Como
Yesterday, I headed out to Milan in order to attend the Macef convention today at FieraMilano. I used every method of transportation to arrive (except I guess, boat)! I got a ride from Ispra to a train station that had a direct connection to Milan. Once arrived in Milan, I bought a 2 day Metro pass so that I could navigate the city with ease. Milan’s metro system is extremely easy to understand and also very accessible from many parts of the city. After checking in to my favorite hotel, the Westin Palace on Piazza della Repubblica, I headed out for some adventures!
Hopping on the Metro in front of my hotel, I headed to the heart of this vibrant city – Piazza Duomo! Upon exiting the Metro station, I was faced with the incredible facade of the majestic Gothic duomo.
I sat for awhile at it’s door, enjoying a prosciutto panino and doing some people watching! The piazza was hopping! There were throngs of tourists, and also throngs of street merchants trying to sell you junky little souvenirs. Holding on tight to my purse, I sat and admired this architectural wonder. Once I got my fill, I headed out in search of the famed Naviglio Grande. At one time, Milan was compared to Amsterdam in that canals traversed the city. In fact, there was a canal right near the Duomo from which the marble from Lago Maggiore came to build the massive structure. Over time, the canals were filled in and the city was built over them. The Navigli district is the only area in Milan where the canals are still present. At one time, this part of the city was extremely seedy and dangerous…but it has been rejuvenated into a trendy area filled with boutiques and restaurants. I have to say that the shopping kind of disappointed me, but the restaurants looked wonderful.
After exploring this area, I headed back to the Duomo area to do some window shopping. Milan is the city of fashion, so every designer is represented here. The prices are exhorbitant, but if you are looking for designer labels, this is the place for you!
Heading back to the hotel, I decided to spend the evening at the hotel’s bar, enjoying an aperitivo. Aperitivos are always served with food…it helps with the tolerance of the alcohol!
I sat with my IPad and wrote and wrote! Sitting in the corner, I wasn’t disturbed by anyone! Just how I like it! For dinner, since I still haven’t mastered the art of eating alone in public, I played it safe by ordering room service. Lasagne with a glass of white wine….not too shabby!
Today, I attended the giant Macef convention. This event is dedicated to Italian design and gifts. I came for for the sole purpose of looking at bomboniere (favors), but ended up finding so much more. I am inspired to open a gift shop in order to showcase all the gorgeous Italian designs I witnessed today! There is something about the absolute simplicity of Italian design that captivates me! And the ideas I came away with are an inspiration for some future endeavors. I will have to do some legwork in order to introduce the bomboniere concept in the USA! And who knows, maybe some other items will sneak their way in!
After wandering the convention today in my “gladiator” shoes, I had to call it quits! I dressed for success today, but fashion comes with a price!!!! But I came away with such a sense of Italian design, and also a dream of sharing it back home!
And tonight’s “loner” dinner was bruschetta! Yummy!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Milan
Sorry for the delay in keeping my promise to blog almost every day, but our social calendar has been absolutely overwhelming. We have had at least two invitations every day! We are just so popular!!!! Ha! Ha!
The day after my last post was the whole reason for our trip – the town’s giant birthday party for all the 80 year olds in town!!! And what a shindig it was! The day started off with a a special blessing to the Class of 1931 during the Sunday liturgy! Along with the many 1931′ers present, there was even a wedding at the same Mass! It was the strangest thing I have ever seen!
The entire congregation was seated for the beginning of Mass, when in walked the bridal procession!!! Nothing like having the entire church community celebrate with you!
After the very crowded Mass, we all piled into cars to be whisked away to La Fornarina…an excellent restaurant which has become the town’s favorite. The food was incredible…and it kept coming and coming! We started off with a huge assortment of antipastos including prosciutto and melon, coppa, salame,and parmesan crisps filled with tuna. Then came the first pasta dish – fettucine alla panna con porcini (fettucini with cream and porcini mushrooms)! This was followed by another pasta dish – spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams). Both of these dishes were delicious, but two pasta dishes? Unheard of!
And if that wasn’t enough, the main course was still to come!!! I forget what the other choices were, but I ordered Pesce Persico (perch). This fish is very special here because it is a specialty of Lago Maggiore, since it is commonly fished in the lake! It was served with french fries. What I noticed here is that vegetables are not a common occurence on the menu – you have to make a real point to order them! Whereas in the home and everyday menus of the Italians, vegetables are always present – but when they have guests or are hosting a special meal, they are never present! Very strange! After this main course, we had the dessert! It was a San Honore cake! This is THE cake whenever there is a special occasion – even in San Francisco we order these cakes for those times. It is made usually with rum, cream puffs filled with cream, and a bit of chocolate! No calories in this one!
In addition to all this food, the alcohol was freely flowing! Wine with the meal, and choices of limoncello and grappa with dessert! Coffee with grappa – making it “correct” – finished off the meal! Wow! And do you know how much all of this cost???? Only 30 €!
Well….that was what we had for lunch…but dinner was yet to come! We were invited for dinner at my cousin’s place! He prepared a pasta made with lots of various seafood – which was delicious! He gave me the “secret” recipe, so I will post it once I try it at home. He also prepared a carpaccio of swordfish – DELICIOUS! I am going to have to see if my fish monger will slice the fish so paper thin to be worthy of this recipe! Needless to say, we were a bit full that day! But the generosity of all our family and friends has been limitless! Italians are the most giving people there are!
The following day was crystal clear and I took advantage of the weather to head on down to the lake for a peaceful stroll along the promenade! This spot on Lago Maggiore is absolutely heavenly – I even found a classical villa for sale along the lake’s edge! What a dream it would be to own such a piece of Lago Maggiore’s history! I wonder how much it is?
After my stroll, we headed off to spend some time with the newest member of our family – 6 month old Clarissa! As if we hadn’t had our fill of food the day before, we were invited yet again to another cousin’s house for dinner! This one’s house sits on a hill and has a view of Lago Maggiore! It is absolutely stunning! Here they prepared some ravioli with butter and sage sauce and pork cutlets served with melted cheese and prosciutto! Another delicious meal!
And now we come to yesterday!!! What a fun filled day filled with all my favorite things- sightseeing, shopping, and FOOD!!!! Again, the day was crystal clear and there was not a cloud in the sky for my shopping trip to Ponte Tresa. This town sits on the border between Italy and Switzerland, and it is on the shores of beautiful Lake Lugano. The lake very much resembles the lakes of Austria around Salzburg!
The verdant woods surrounding the lake, with the tall mountains in the background, were just stunning. Because I was with locals, they knew of the perfect spot to take me to! Lake Lugano is like two lakes connected by a river. This spot is called Lavena Ponte Tresa…and it is so picturesque. There is a small promenade with little boats moored to the shore and tiny outdoor restaurants! It is quiet and peaceful…and SO beautiful!
We came to Ponte Tresa because there was a Campisa purse store here. I was really excited at first because I thought I was getting a great deal on some name brand purses. Don’t get me wrong – the purses are well made and really stylish. The prices are great, and they are trendy and fashionable! They are also extremely popular! But…and this is a big but for me….they are not leather!!!! I really want a leather purse from Italy, and I was disappointed that I didn’t find it. Hopefully, I will get the opportunity to find one!
After a day of shopping, dinner at another cousin’s was still to come! She, also, lives on a hill and has a gorgeous view of the lake!
They all have such beautiful homes! She prepared a risotto dish made with gorgonzola cheese and sliced apples! What a wonderful combination of flavors! So creamy, yet spiked with the unique flavor of spicy gorgonzola cheese…and then sweetened up with the small apple slices! Yummy!
This particular cousin has become the custodian of all the family photos handed down from one generation to the next. She shared with me any photo which I wished to have. I have such treasures of my grandparents and my dad as a little boy! I can’t wait to go home and sort them out!
There hasn’t been enough time in each day to truly savor all these delicious delicasies prepared with such loving care – I think I have to spend at least a month to truly appreciate each of these invites on an individual basis. But just spending time together has been incredible, and truly unforgettable!
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Location:Ispra and Ponte Tresa
These last couple of days have been spent truly living the “normal” life of an Italian. Yesterday morning, after our daily brakfast of a capucchino and a brioche, we headed out for a morning stroll into town. As soon as we made it maybe 100 yards, we ran into my mom’ best childhood friend who was on her way to visit her loved ones at the cemetary. In Italy, visiting the cemetary and taking care of the flowers at the gravesite, is a weekly, if not, a daily activity! It is also a big social meeting place!!!! I wanted to go, since the last time I visited this cemetary and I had tried to find my grandparents’ grave, I failed terribly because I searched and searched but never found it! Therefore, since my mom was with me…and she knew where they were….I wanted to go. Armed with my camera, we followed my mom’s friend to the cemetary!
Wandering through it, they began reminiscing about such and such, and noticing their graves, they were reminded of someone else! It may seem like it was a macabre subject, but in reality, it was not in the least bit sad. They were actually being reminded with happy thoughts of the deceased. The dead are never forgotten in Italy….the flowers are always well taken care of, and the cemetary is part of everyday life. They are beautiful and peaceful places, with gorgeous monuments, sculptures, and flowers. As my aunt said, “We have to take care of the gravesites because that is really our final home…not the one we currently live in!”
After our visit to all the family and friends that have gone before us, we were invited impromptly for lunch at my mom’s friend. Therefore, she stopped at the local butcher and bought some fresh prosciutto and salami. Then she stopped at the bskery and bought some delicious bread. By the time we got home, we were salivating! Our simple lunch was delicious, and being invited into the home where my mom spent so many days of her childhood was incomparable. This friend lived down the street from my mom, and according to her friend, they used to constantly run from one house to the other! It’s amazing that this woman has lived over 80 years in the exact same house!!!!
Spending all day with the ladies, despite being very interested in their stories, was taking a bit of a toll on me. I needed to get out and walk a bit. Therefore, as we were leaving, on our way to visit my aunt, I told my mom that I needed to get out and move a bit. She decided to come with me, and so, instead of taking the main road to get to my aunt’s, we took the backroads and crossed through fields and made friends with some local chickens!!! It was wonderful! The smells of fresh grass and hay immediately brought me back to when I was a little girl and used to come to Italy!
My aunt had some more stories to tell, but again, I felt like I needed some youthful interaction….and so my cousin came to the rescue! My mom stayed with her sister and they had some quiet time together while I went out for some woodfired pizza! There is nothing like Italian pizza! The crust is paper thin, with a little of a burnt edge, topped with prosciutto and mushrooms….a delicacy not to be missed. Only that in Italy, there is no sharing of food – everyone gets their own pizza….and they eat the whole thing! No doggie bags here!!!! Happy and content, I ended my day in anticipation for the next day’s event…and the reason for our trip here!
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Location:Ispra
After falling back to sleep around 4:30 am, we slept until about 9. By the time we made it down to the “bar” for breakfast, they were almost out of goodies! Luckily, they still had my absolute favorite – a marmelade filled croissant. The pastries and the coffee here are uniquely good – there is no comparison to anything I have had anywhere else.
After breakfast, we crossed the street from our hotel to head to the bank for some currency exchange. On the way, we passed Il Nazionale, the establishment that my grandparents had during the War. It was a bar and restaurant, with a few rooms to rent upstairs. My dad grew up here, and I have a picture of him as a little boy standing on this same balcony.
The house is now owned by an old friend of my father’s…and while we were strolling in front of it and stopping to take pictures, he saw us and invited us in!!! What a treat it was! I was able to see furniture, light fixtures, floors, and other things that were in the house when my Dad lived in it.
He was telling us that they want to redo the house, and they are planning on THROWING AWAY some of these pieces of furniture! Can you believe that they are just going to toss them? I am determined to see what I can do about saving them! Hopefully, I can figure out a way to send them safely across the seas to find a new home in California!
After living some of my father’s family history, we strolled towards the home that my mom grew up in. Her family home is located in the historic center of town, and as a historic building, the exteriors cannot be altered. Therefore, the outside of her home looks just like it has for hundreds of years….but evidently, the interiors have all been modernized.
Unfortunately, I was not able to see the insides. The small cobblestone alleyway was the path my mom took on her wedding day that led to the Church.
Visiting some old family friends, I enjoyed listening to stories of the “old days”! They were reliving their youth, and saying that even though they were poor, they enjoyed life! Perhaps it is just the story of the elderly, but they all looked upon their youth with such good memories.
Before being whisked off to dinner with another cousin, we took a walk down to the “lungolago” – the beautiful lakefront promenade. We sat on a bench, happy to take in the gorgeous panorama in front of our eyes!
Dinner tonight was at a town festival in an adjacent town, Sesto Calende, where my cousin lives. They were celebrating the feast of the “oratorio” – a sort of boys and girls club run by the town priests. My cousin used to hang out here as a boy, and now his son does. Rows and rows of tables were set up under some tents, and volunteer cooks made the meals. We had a choice of spaghetti with clams, codfish with onions, polenta with ragu sauce, tripe, or polenta with gorgonzola cheese! It was all delicious (except I didn’t try the tripe – a little too adventurous for me). And of course, a little bit of wine! Even though they were cooking for hoards of people, the food was prepared with such care and it was phenomenal. And the 5 Euro fee was a steal!
Time for bed now….we shall see what tomorrow brings us!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:Ispra
Yesterday, my mom and I left SFO for a two week trip back to my mom’s hometown of Ispra, along the beautiful shores of Lago Maggiore. The purpose for this trip was to bring my mom back so that she can celebrate a giant birthday party for all the 80 year olds in her home town! She is the Class of 1931…not high school class of 1931….but birth-year class of 1931. In Italy, that is how you identify yourself….sono della classe del … (I am from the class of….) Many of her coscritti (fellow 1931-ers) will be here; many of whom she hasn’t seen in more than 50 years!
We had a non-stop flight to Zurich on Swiss Air, a quick one hour layover, and then a hop-skip-and a jump over the Alps into Milan! The flight was incredibly timely and perfect…thanks to the Swiss for their precision!!!
Upon arrival in Milan, beautiful familiar faces greated us as we walked out of the “holding cell”. Of course, we walked through the “nothing to declare” line…they are really trustworthy here in Italy. They leave it totally up to you whether you want to declare your goods or not…gee, I wonder how many customers they actually get in the “something to declare” line!!! Guess they save on customs personnel that way! Ha!ha!
Being with my Italian family immediately brings me back to my childhood…I relinquish all responsibility and fall into their supportive arms! It’s wonderful! My cousin and his wife brought us to their home for some homemade tortellini in broth…a light dinner because they knew that after a long flight, we needed to have a light meal. It was perfect, and delicious! The tortellini were gorgeous, with a filling of sausage, meat, and prosciutto. The broth was made with the highest quality beef bones, and extremely light! Sorry, I didn’t take the time to take any pictures before I gobbled it down!
After dinner and some catch-up chatting, we came to our home away from home…The B & B al Lago near Ispra’s historic center. We wanted a place in town, as we are not renting a car and needed to be within an 80 year old’s walking distance range! This is a tiny place with only 3 rooms…but the rooms are spacious, clean, and modern! We even have air-conditioning! The only funky thing, and hopefully not too big of a drawback, is the crazy shower! It is in the corner of the bathroom, with a very modern shower head….BUT NO DOORS OR CURTAINS! There is a drain on the floor, a little tle lip encompassing the “shower area” , but without any doors or curtains, I’m not exactly sure how the rest of the bathroom won’t get wet when the water splashes off your body! I haven’t tried it out yet…perhaps there is some miracle of Italian engineering that will lay all my fears to rest!
I am writing this blog post at 3 am…darn time change! Can’t wait to see what tomorrow (or today, actually…I am so confused!) brings! I am so excited to experience everyday life in “my” hometown.
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