Viva L’Italia! April 25, 2012

The war years in Italy were difficult – innocent people were killed by the Germans because they were believed to be helping the Partisans (see my post about this at  An Italian Tragedy), people were hungry and not sure if they would get food, and idlyllic and peaceful places full of history, art, and beauty were being destroyed.  Once the Americans came in and the Partisans triumphed, Italy began to breathe a sigh of relief.  La Festa della Liberazione, a National holiday in Italy marking the end of World War II and the fall of the Fascist government, is celebrated today, April 25th, with parades and other festivities all over Italy.  Rebuilding Italy after the War would turn out to be a significant and difficult task, but the Italians worked hard and persevered.  Even though it is not immune to the problems plaguing the rest of the world, Italy has come a long way from those horrible days during and after World War II to become the Italy that so captivates and enchants those that visit her.

Below is a song written by Partisan sympathizers and sung during the War by the Resistance.   It was sung in the underground and only became popular to the public after the War when it was introduced by some Italian student singers at Berlin’s Youth Festival in 1948.  I have to make note, here, that I am purely sharing this song as part of Italy’s history and I’m not making ANY political statement here!!!  With that said, here it is:

BELLA CIAO

Una mattina mi son svegliato O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao Una mattina mi son svegliato Eo ho trovato l’invasor

O partigiano porta mi via O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao O partigiano porta mi via Che mi sento di morir

E se io muoio da partigiano O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao E se io muoio da partigiano Tu mi devi seppellir

Mi seppellire lassù in montagna O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao Mi seppellire lassù in montagna Sotto l’ombra di un bel fiore

E le genti che passeranno O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao E le genti che passeranno Mi diranno: “Che bel fior”

È questo il fiore del partigiano O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao È questo il fiore del partigiano Morto per la libertà

**********************

One morning I woke up O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao One morning I woke up And I found the invader

Oh partisan, carry me away, O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao Oh partisan, carry me away, For I feel I’m dying

And if I die as a partisan O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao And if I die as a partisan You have to bury me

But bury me up in the mountain O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao, But bury me up in the mountain Under the shadow of a beautiful flower

And the people who will pass by O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao, And the people who will pass by Will say to me: “what a beautiful flower”

This is the flower of the partisan O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao This is the flower of the partisan Who died for freedom

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Here is a song that was sung by the Alpini – a branch of the military that patrols the mountains all around Italy.  It captures the sentiments felt during the War by those Alpini soldiers and their love of the mountains of Italy.  It is in a sort of dialect, and therefore I will try to translate it as best I can!

IL TESTAMENTO DEL CAPITANO

 El capitan de la compagnia l’è ferito stà per morir el manda a dire ai suoi Alpini perchè lo vengano a ritrovar. el manda a dire ai suoi Alpini perchè lo vengano a ritrovar.

I suoi Alpini ghè manda a dire che non han scarpe per camminar O con le scarpe o senza scarpe i miei Alpini li voglio qua. O con le scarpe o senza scarpe i miei Alpini li voglio qua.

Cosa comanda, siòr capitano, che noi adesso semo arrivà? E io comando che il mio corpo in cinque pezzi sia taglià. E io comando che il mio corpo in cinque pezzi sia taglià.

Il primo pezzo alla mia Patria secondo pezzo al Battaglion il terzo pezzo alla mia Mamma che si ricordi del suo figliol. il terzo pezzo alla mia Mamma che si ricordi del suo figliol.

Il quarto pezzo alla mia bella che si ricordi del suo primo amor. L’ultimo pezzo alle montagne che lo fioriscano di rose e fior L’ultimo pezzo alle montagne che lo fioriscano di rose e fior.

*******************

The Captain’s Testament

The captain of the company is wounded and is dying.  He sends a message to his Alpini soldiers for them to come and visit him.

His Alpini soldiers tell him that they don’t have shoes to walk.  He says that with our without shoes, he wants them there.

What do you command, Captain sir, now that we have arrived?  I command that you cut my body up into 5 pieces.

The first piece to my Country, the second piece to my battalion, the third piece to my mother so that she may remember her son.

The fourth piece to by girlfriend so that she can remember her first love.  And the fifth piece to the mountains so that it can be covered in roses.

Any Della Robbia’s in Your Neighborhood? March 21, 2012

The other day at a consignment shop, I found a ceramic wall statue with a white face and brightly colored fruits surrounding the head.  It reminded me of a Della Robbia-type of ceramic.

In reality, Della Robbia really only made religious plaques…but the brightly colored flowers is what reminded me of the style.  And this led to my investigation into the ceramics called Della Robbia’s.  Lo and behold, so many examples of Della Robbia’s started popping up all over the place.  Walking around Los Gatos, near St. Mary’s Catholic Church, I saw a wall plaque.  On the side wall of St. Nicholas Church in Los Altos was another one.  At the convent at Dominican College in San Rafael – yet another!  It’s amazing how you begin to notice art when you are conscious of it.  I have walked by those plaques in Los Gatos and Los Altos millions of times and never paid any attention to them.   Last weekend, while visiting the Victorian Avant Garde exhibit at the Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco, I came face to face with one as I was walking through the museum to get to the exhibit.  This was an original one by the famed Andrea Della Robbia!

In my own  collection, I have two Della Robbia’s.

This one is for sale in my shop here.

The other one is a family heirloom which holds meaning for me.  It belonged to my husband’s grandmother and graced her walls for many years.  It is very old and I’m lucky to have it as a treasured possession.

In the tiny, unassuming town of Radicofani, Tuscany, can be found four Della Robbia masterpieces in their church.

The locals believe that Andrea Della Robbia hid his formula of glazing terra cotta in one of their statues.  They have even gone to the extreme of xraying the statues, but to no avail.  Since the only way to see if the document spelling out the secret formula lies within in one of the pieces would require breaking it, they have decided to leave it hidden for now!  The technique seems to have been carried down through the ages just fine.

Andrea Della Robbia was one of the most important ceramic artists of Renaissance Florence.  He learned the technique of glazing terra cotta from his uncle, Luca Della Robbia, and perfected the technique in his own studio.  This technique gained a lot of popularity because his altar pieces could be made more colorful and at a lesser expense than marble altarpieces – and they were MUCH lighter to transport.  His statues and plaques have the distinctive blue background with the white reliefs of Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the Saints.  At times, the plaques are surround by colorful fruits and flowers. Today, several ceramic studios in Italy make these beautiful plaques.

Italy is Always Around Me February 28, 2012

When my mom was a little girl in Italy, long before the world of the internet and fast airplanes, whenever someone wanted to say “get lost” they would say “vai a California” (go to California!).  Back then, California was as far away as the moon!  Luckily, technology has improved and Italy and California are just a 13-15 hour plane ride away.  You can wake up in California and go to sleep in Italy (or vice versa).  The world has become a much smaller place.  We can SKYPE with our loved ones on the other side of the world – see their faces – hear their voices!  It’s a true wonder

Even though the world is much smaller, travelling back and forth between Italy and California takes time and money.  It’s not something that we can do on a routine basis – it still remains a special trip and one that takes planning.  Luckily, though, I have many reminders of Italy in my own vicinities!

Excellent Italian Restaurants rivalling those found in Italy

Wonderful Enoteca’s serving Italian wines

Beautiful Italian architecture

Villa Montalvo, Saratoga CA

Shops selling Italian products

Italian Fashion Houses

Gucci at Santana Row

Baccala’…Made in Italy February 20, 2012

An old recipe, handed down through the generations….
A dried piece of stoccafisso (the best kind of dried codfish to use)….
Three days of patient waiting…

Voila!

Baccala’!

My mom’s family hailed from the Veneto region of Italy where Baccala’ recipes originated. Served on top of polenta, it was a poor man’s delight during those cold nights of winter. Families always had a dried piece of cod in their pantry…it kept forever and they knew that they could follow their “Fish on Friday” mandate of the Church in case fresh fish wasn’t available. I guess they were better dinner planners in those days because in order to prepare the Baccala’, they needed at least three days!

Just last week, my Italian cousin found this recipe and was inspired to make it! This version is known as Baccala’ Ragno!

The first thing he had to do was beat the dried fish with a piece of wood.  This breaks up the tough fibers and softens it a bit.

When the poor dried fish was beaten, it got soaked in water for three days, changing the water a few times a day.

Here is a translation of the above recipe – I didn’t translate word for word to make the recipe read better in English!

1.  Beat the baccala’ wrapped up in a rag (with a stick or a meat pounder).

2.  Submerse it in cold water for 3 days – changing the water 2 times per day.

3.  Skin it and remove the spine.  Cut it into clean pieces.

4.  Saute 1 minced onion, 3 chopped garlic cloves, and a handful of chopped parsley in some olive oil.  Add salt and pepper to taste. (Optional:  add 3 or 4 salted and chopped sardines).

5.  Add the baccala’ and 1 1/2 cups white wine.  Add a vegetable bouillon cube and simmer for a while.

6. Add some water and cook slowly for about 3 hours.  Occasionally add some wine or water so that it doesn’t dry out.

7.  Halfway through the cooking, add 2 cups of milk.

8.  When it is almost done, add some grated Parmesan or Grana cheese and some more milk if needed to make a creamy consistency.

Technology is wonderful….He could share the cooking process with me almost instantly….but, sadly, it hasn’t evolved yet to the point where I can actually taste a bite of this delicious family recipe!  Buon appetito!

Tis the Night…. January 5, 2012

Tonight’s the night….are your stockings hung?  All over Italy, children are awaiting the loot they will find when The Befana comes to visit.  And all women are getting ready for their day….or are they?  There’s always the question if being wished “Auguri” tomorrow is a good thing or not, since La Befana is an ugly old witch….and does it mean that whoever is wishing us cheer is thinking we are like La Befana?  Quite a dilemma, huh?  The story of La Befana is a cute one, and you can read about it on my post from last year here:  La Befana by Tesoro Treasures.

But today, I wanted to share a fun little song from 1978, sung by the great Gianni Morandi, about La Befana.

Enjoy!

Trullalla, Trullalla!

The Befana comes at night

With shoes all broken

With a sock

Around her neck

With carbon, with iron, with brass.

On her broom

To fly

She comes from the sea, She comes from the sea.

And the snow shall fall

On the deserts of Maharaja

From Alaska to Canada.

She’ll need to leave

And she’ll sing while she leaves.

She’ll dress like a woman from the South

And with the sock she’ll arrive.

The storm will win,

And she’ll sing “Trullalla”

The Befana will arrive…

Trullalla…Trullalla!

A child,

The size of a little mouse,

Inserted himself in the chimney

To see her closeup.

When she arrives,

The Befana,

Without teeth,

Jumps and dances for some wime.

Then, hiding, she backs away

With the night stuck to her skirt.

And a warm wind will blow

on the deserts of the Maharaja

From Alaska to Canada.

Only one star will shine,

and she’ll have to follow it

to fly towards the North..

and the road is long, but

the storm will win.

And singing Trullalla

The Befana will go.

Buon Natale!! December 23, 2011

Merry Christmas to all my dear readers.   May the joy and laughter of Christmas fill your hearts and your lives during this Holiday season…and throughout the New Year.  I can never have enough words to express my gratitude to each one of you for your support and encouragement.  Thank you from the bottom of my heart!!!  Mille grazie a voi tutti!!!

I want to share a beautiful Christmas song, sung by the talented Roberta Bonanno…A Natale Puoi…

Pasta alla Puttanesca – YUM!!! September 28, 2011

When I was in Italy earlier this month, I ventured into a book store in Milan and went straight to the cookbook section.  I wanted to see if there was a simple cookbook which gave great down-to-earth recipes for the simple foods created in Italy.  As I’ve mentioned before, I love Italian food because it is so simple – the ingredients are genuine and the taste is not too “messy”.  I found not one, but two, cookbooks which struck my fancy.  The first one was “La Cucina Milanese”…and this one had so many recipes in it that my mom cooks that is was like home to me   I was even surprised to find a chapter on Lumache e Rane (snails and frogs)!  Now, I’m not that adventurous but I guess these are widely eaten in the Milan area (I don’t think I’ve ever had them, though..thankfully!).  The other cookbook was “La Cucina Borghese”.  This book features recipes that are cooked in the countryside and with simple ingredients.  I have been experimenting with these books since I’ve been home and have discovered some twists on old recipes as well as some new recipes!  One of the new ones I tried was the Puttanesca sauce for spaghetti!  Of course, I’ve heard of this sauce but I’m not sure I ever really tried it.  The term comes from the Roman “ladies of the evening” and I think it’s named this way because the sauce has a bit of a kick to it!  It’s a funny name for a sauce that is absolutely delicious.  My version has an omission in it – olives!  I like olives by themselves, but I’m not crazy about them in a sauce.  But, if you are an olive lover, by all means, add them in!

Pasta alla Puttanesca

1.  Saute 2 cloves of garlic and about 1/2 t. red pepper flakes (add more if you like it hotter) in 1/4 cup olive oil. 

2.  Crumble a can of tuna and add 5 chopped up anchovy fillets.  Mix them up and add them to the garlic and oil mixture.

3.  Cook them a few minutes.  Add about 1 1/2 cups of marinara sauce and cook until the sauce is warmed.

4.  Add 1/4 cup drained capers and mix gently.

5.  Pour over 1 lb. of cooked spaghetti.  Top with some grated parmesan cheese, if desired.  ENJOY!!!

Coming Into the Home Stretch September 14, 2011

Returning to Ispra after my galavanting around Milan and Como, I found new areas to explore. After visiting some friends that lived on the north end of town, I realized that I didn’t know that area at all! So one day, after lunch (and leaving my mom with her sister), I set out. First destination was the lake. But instead of heading South as I always do, I headed North. Now I had been to the edge of the north beach before, and had even looked at one time about continuing in that direction, but had been intimidated by the lack of a path and the many granite boulders hugging the lake’s edge. But this time, since I knew that there was a path there somewhere, I braved the unknown. To my surprise (and relief), a path eventually appeared…and it was gorgeous! It reminded me of the Via del Amore in the Cinque Terre!!! Who needs to go all the way to Liguria when this exists here!

Winding along the lake’s edge, it was a beautiful and peaceful stroll. I was alone on this stretch of granite pavingstones with only the lake’s gentle waves lapping against the boulders. At one time, this area had been where the limestone mines were. When my parents were young, many of their parents worked there. My mom told me that when she was a little girl, her and her friends would ditch preschool in order to sneak down to this part of the lake to play! A bell would sound when they were about to blast, and the kids would take cover in some caves in case of falling rocks! Can you imagine the adventures they must have had? Today this area is filled with some gorgeous villas that even have water garages for their boats! When I reached the end of the path, I took a LONG winding staircase back up to the road.

From here I had to trek up to the top of the hill before heading down back into town. I passed some gorgeous properties – some new, but also some old stately villas!

The walk was strenuous but so rewarding!

Upon entering back into town, I passed a real estate office. In their window were pictures of properties for sale in and around Ispra. It’s always been my dream to own a little part of this little paradise! So I picked up their little property guide and started dreaming. Heading back to my internet connection, I began to do some research. To my surprise and excitement, I found an apartment in the center of town in the same complex as my mom’s friend. We had just been over for dinner the night before, so I was familiar with the building. We called him and he knew all about the place for sale….he even had the keys! What a thrill! The apartment sits on the third and final floor, and it has two bedrooms, one bath, two balconies, a kitchen, a large living room/dining room, a storage closet….and down in the basement a cantina! It is sunny and bright (the apartment, not the cantina!!! Haha) It is large and spacious! AND the price was great! But, with all this excitement comes the harsh reality of what buying a property in Italy really entails. Do I really know anything about renovating? What about finding reputable contractors? Yes, the apartment did need work….a new kitchen and bathroom would be great….new floors….removal of wallpaper and painting….some new windows….all the things I would need to make it mine! But the possibilities were clear. I had the picture of the renovated apartment that our friend had, and I knew that with some patience and some money, it would turn out beautifully!!!! So….I’m still dreaming and perhaps my dream will come true!

Sadly, our time in Italy has come to an end. We are on our LONG flight back to San Francisco. I have come back with treasured memories of my home away from home…and I have experienced life as it was here through my mom’s eyes. So much of who I am comes from this tiny little gem.

Ispra – La perla del Lago Maggiore
Ispra- The pearl of Lago Maggiore

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Location:Ispra

An Unexpected Detour September 11, 2011

On my last morning in Milan, as I was heading down the elevator to grab a bite to eat, I noticed a poster inside the elevator talking about terrace dining at the hotel. Curious, I went in search of this peaceful paradise in this busy city. The terrace was on the rooftop and truly an oasis of tranquility. I grabbed a table and ordered my usual capuccino and marmalade filled croissant and sat peacefully taking in the fresh crisp air of the morning.

Refreshed and ready to tackle the city bustle, I headed out to catch the Metro! Feeling like a pro navigating the city, I found myself in Piazza Duomo once more determined to come away with some fashion purchases. This time I headed in the opposite direction from Via Montenapoleone to the “lower rent” district ( if there is such a thing in Milan), and, to my surprise, I found several “normal” stores! I must have been in a shopping mood, so I was VERY successful! In one of the shops, I even met an Italian pianist who will be performing at The Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco later this month – and she invited me to her performance! What a small world we truly live in!

Loaded with packages, I had to quit my shopping expedition to head back to the hotel for my ride back to Ispra. My cousin surprised me with the notice that he had taken the afternoon off from work so that we could do something together. What to do? We had about four hours to explore…so we decided to take a detour to Lake Como! The only other time I had visited Lake Como was in winter – it was beautiful, but not exactly tourist weather. We parked a bit out of the center of Como and began our trek towards the lakefront promenade. We passed my favorite little alleyways that I’m always so attracted to when I visit Italy. Tiny little winding alleys, with cobblestones underfoot and gorgeous old buildings with flowers hanging off the balconies, make me think of all the millions of people over the centuries that have walked these same steps! Explaining this fascination to my cousin, he said that, unfortunately for them, who have always lived surrounded by these ancient environs, they don’t even think twice about the historical beauty that surrounds them. I think I may have opened his eyes!

After passing gorgeous piazzas filled with outdoor eating, we arrived at the lake’s edge.

We found a beautiful little restaurant and enjoyed some wonderful pasta and a cool glass of wine. I couldn’t have been happier – al fresco dining in a gorgeous setting with a spectacular view, great food, and good company! Now this is my idea of La Bella Vita! Even though I didn’t get any George Clooney sitings, it was the perfect day!

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Location:Milan, Como

Incredible Milano September 8, 2011

Yesterday, I headed out to Milan in order to attend the Macef convention today at FieraMilano. I used every method of transportation to arrive (except I guess, boat)! I got a ride from Ispra to a train station that had a direct connection to Milan. Once arrived in Milan, I bought a 2 day Metro pass so that I could navigate the city with ease. Milan’s metro system is extremely easy to understand and also very accessible from many parts of the city. After checking in to my favorite hotel, the Westin Palace on Piazza della Repubblica, I headed out for some adventures!

Hopping on the Metro in front of my hotel, I headed to the heart of this vibrant city – Piazza Duomo! Upon exiting the Metro station, I was faced with the incredible facade of the majestic Gothic duomo.

I sat for awhile at it’s door, enjoying a prosciutto panino and doing some people watching! The piazza was hopping! There were throngs of tourists, and also throngs of street merchants trying to sell you junky little souvenirs. Holding on tight to my purse, I sat and admired this architectural wonder. Once I got my fill, I headed out in search of the famed Naviglio Grande. At one time, Milan was compared to Amsterdam in that canals traversed the city. In fact, there was a canal right near the Duomo from which the marble from Lago Maggiore came to build the massive structure. Over time, the canals were filled in and the city was built over them. The Navigli district is the only area in Milan where the canals are still present. At one time, this part of the city was extremely seedy and dangerous…but it has been rejuvenated into a trendy area filled with boutiques and restaurants. I have to say that the shopping kind of disappointed me, but the restaurants looked wonderful.

After exploring this area, I headed back to the Duomo area to do some window shopping. Milan is the city of fashion, so every designer is represented here. The prices are exhorbitant, but if you are looking for designer labels, this is the place for you!

Heading back to the hotel, I decided to spend the evening at the hotel’s bar, enjoying an aperitivo. Aperitivos are always served with food…it helps with the tolerance of the alcohol!

I sat with my IPad and wrote and wrote! Sitting in the corner, I wasn’t disturbed by anyone! Just how I like it! For dinner, since I still haven’t mastered the art of eating alone in public, I played it safe by ordering room service. Lasagne with a glass of white wine….not too shabby!

Today, I attended the giant Macef convention. This event is dedicated to Italian design and gifts. I came for for the sole purpose of looking at bomboniere (favors), but ended up finding so much more. I am inspired to open a gift shop in order to showcase all the gorgeous Italian designs I witnessed today! There is something about the absolute simplicity of Italian design that captivates me! And the ideas I came away with are an inspiration for some future endeavors. I will have to do some legwork in order to introduce the bomboniere concept in the USA! And who knows, maybe some other items will sneak their way in!

After wandering the convention today in my “gladiator” shoes, I had to call it quits! I dressed for success today, but fashion comes with a price!!!! But I came away with such a sense of Italian design, and also a dream of sharing it back home!

And tonight’s “loner” dinner was bruschetta! Yummy!

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Location:Milan