Dear Dan Brown…I Have a Storyline for You! May 14, 2012

Dear Dan Brown,

Since your Vatican mysteries, Angels and Demons and The DaVinci Code, are such great novels, I have a new storyline for you.  This is full of Vatican mystery, conspiracy, Mafia…all the elements of a great Dan Brown mystery!  But this story is a real life drama…a mystery that’s been unsolved since 1983…when the young 15 year old daughter of a lay Vatican employee vanished on her way to music lessons.  Her name was Emanuela Orlandi.  Her disappearance has been unsolved for all these years, but perhaps may finally be figured out.  Her kidnapping was at one time linked to the assassination attempt on Pope John Paul II, but nothing had ever been proven.

In 2008, a new chapter was opened in the case when a woman came forward to claim ther her ex-boyfriend, a mobster by the name of Enrico De Pedis and his gang, the Magliana’s, kidnapped the girl.  The order for the kidnapping had come from Archibishop Paul Marcinkus, the late U.S. prelate responsible for heading up the Vatican bank and who had been linked to a huge Italian banking scandal in the 1980′s.  At the time, the Archbishop and the Vatican said that the claims were absurd and they did not pursue the investigation.   There were allegations that the Vatican did not fully cooperate with the investigation – were they hiding something?

Enrico De Pedis was murdered in 1990 and was buried in the Sant’Apolinare Basilica, adjacent to Piazza Navona…and near some very important Catholics…a rather unusual resting place for a reputed mobster!

Over the years, stories have surfaced that the young Emanuela was buried alongside of him. In 2005, an anonymous caller said that the answer to her disappearance lay in De Pedis’ tomb.  Just today, with the approval of the Vatican and the De Pedis’ family, the mobster’s tomb was  opened.  In it lay only one body….but nearby in the ossuary lay about 200 containers containing bones.  These bones were removed and will be tested over the next few weeks to see if they belong to the missing teenager.  The Vatican has given its full authority to exhume the bones and to carry out this investigation in the hopes that the mystery of the girl’s disappearance may finally be solved after all these years.

Mr. Brown…I have no question that you can make this real life story into another great novel and one that would be a page turner like all the others that you have given us!  I hope that you consider my suggestion for your new book!

Humbly,

Il Mio Tesoro

Another Glimpse into Italy’s Antiquity – L’Abbazia di San Donato May 10, 2012

In Northern Italy, where the Ticino river leaves Lago Maggiore, is a small town named Sesto Calende.  During the ancient Roman Empire and later, this town was a stopping point for many as they made their journey from the North, over the Alps, on their way into Italy.  As this map shows, several towns along the lake were important destinations for them.

People like the Roman Longobards, Hannibal, Napoleon, and Garibaldi stopped in Sesto and left their mark.  One such mark is the tiny church of L’Abbazia di San Donato.   The original church, which was built between 500 and 600 AD,  stood on the site of an ancient pagan temple.  This location was chosen to beseech God to protect those travelling across the lake.  The first structure is no longer standing, but an ancient stone was preserved.  This stone was originally gilded in gold and silver and was probably part of the pulpit.

The current Abbazia di San Donato dates from the IX century and was erected by the bishop of Pavia, Liutardo del Conti.  Even though, geographically, it was within the Diocese of Milan, it fell under the jurisdiction of the Diocese of Pavia and belonged to the Benedictine order of monks.  During this time, the Benedictines were extremely influential with the Holy Roman Empire  and benefitted both in wealth and power.  These circumstances created conflict  with both dioceses, and in 1111, the monastery and all its wealth were seized by the Diocese of Milan.  Conflicts arose and with the help of the Holy Roman Emperor, Barbarossa, the Benedictines once again regained control of the Abbazia itself but not of the surrounding territory.  Their possessions now belonged to Pope Innocent III.  The monks’ morale and San Donato suffered until 1455 when a Benedictine name Nicola Tatti took control and the Abbazia regained prosperity once again.  Over a period of 40 years, many monks passed through and works of art were commissioned.  This beautiful choir room behind the altar was one of these wonderful artistic masterpieces.  The monks would sit here during Mass and sing their beautiful hymns.

In 1534, once again, the monastery passed into control of Milan and this time the monks left. Over the centuries, the Abbazia fell into the care of others and into disrepair, even becoming a home for soldiers during various insurrections and wars.  In 1911, badly damaged and in total disrepair, it lost it’s status as a parish.  But this gem could not be forgotten…and in 1959, restoration began in the hopes of bringing this important piece of history back to be treasured once more.  With the help of many, it regained its parish status in 1963.

 

From the XV Century

Viva L’Italia! April 25, 2012

The war years in Italy were difficult – innocent people were killed by the Germans because they were believed to be helping the Partisans (see my post about this at  An Italian Tragedy), people were hungry and not sure if they would get food, and idlyllic and peaceful places full of history, art, and beauty were being destroyed.  Once the Americans came in and the Partisans triumphed, Italy began to breathe a sigh of relief.  La Festa della Liberazione, a National holiday in Italy marking the end of World War II and the fall of the Fascist government, is celebrated today, April 25th, with parades and other festivities all over Italy.  Rebuilding Italy after the War would turn out to be a significant and difficult task, but the Italians worked hard and persevered.  Even though it is not immune to the problems plaguing the rest of the world, Italy has come a long way from those horrible days during and after World War II to become the Italy that so captivates and enchants those that visit her.

Below is a song written by Partisan sympathizers and sung during the War by the Resistance.   It was sung in the underground and only became popular to the public after the War when it was introduced by some Italian student singers at Berlin’s Youth Festival in 1948.  I have to make note, here, that I am purely sharing this song as part of Italy’s history and I’m not making ANY political statement here!!!  With that said, here it is:

BELLA CIAO

Una mattina mi son svegliato O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao Una mattina mi son svegliato Eo ho trovato l’invasor

O partigiano porta mi via O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao O partigiano porta mi via Che mi sento di morir

E se io muoio da partigiano O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao E se io muoio da partigiano Tu mi devi seppellir

Mi seppellire lassù in montagna O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao Mi seppellire lassù in montagna Sotto l’ombra di un bel fiore

E le genti che passeranno O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao E le genti che passeranno Mi diranno: “Che bel fior”

È questo il fiore del partigiano O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao È questo il fiore del partigiano Morto per la libertà

**********************

One morning I woke up O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao One morning I woke up And I found the invader

Oh partisan, carry me away, O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao Oh partisan, carry me away, For I feel I’m dying

And if I die as a partisan O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao And if I die as a partisan You have to bury me

But bury me up in the mountain O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao, But bury me up in the mountain Under the shadow of a beautiful flower

And the people who will pass by O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao, And the people who will pass by Will say to me: “what a beautiful flower”

This is the flower of the partisan O bella ciao, bella ciao, bella ciao ciao ciao This is the flower of the partisan Who died for freedom

***************************************

Here is a song that was sung by the Alpini – a branch of the military that patrols the mountains all around Italy.  It captures the sentiments felt during the War by those Alpini soldiers and their love of the mountains of Italy.  It is in a sort of dialect, and therefore I will try to translate it as best I can!

IL TESTAMENTO DEL CAPITANO

 El capitan de la compagnia l’è ferito stà per morir el manda a dire ai suoi Alpini perchè lo vengano a ritrovar. el manda a dire ai suoi Alpini perchè lo vengano a ritrovar.

I suoi Alpini ghè manda a dire che non han scarpe per camminar O con le scarpe o senza scarpe i miei Alpini li voglio qua. O con le scarpe o senza scarpe i miei Alpini li voglio qua.

Cosa comanda, siòr capitano, che noi adesso semo arrivà? E io comando che il mio corpo in cinque pezzi sia taglià. E io comando che il mio corpo in cinque pezzi sia taglià.

Il primo pezzo alla mia Patria secondo pezzo al Battaglion il terzo pezzo alla mia Mamma che si ricordi del suo figliol. il terzo pezzo alla mia Mamma che si ricordi del suo figliol.

Il quarto pezzo alla mia bella che si ricordi del suo primo amor. L’ultimo pezzo alle montagne che lo fioriscano di rose e fior L’ultimo pezzo alle montagne che lo fioriscano di rose e fior.

*******************

The Captain’s Testament

The captain of the company is wounded and is dying.  He sends a message to his Alpini soldiers for them to come and visit him.

His Alpini soldiers tell him that they don’t have shoes to walk.  He says that with our without shoes, he wants them there.

What do you command, Captain sir, now that we have arrived?  I command that you cut my body up into 5 pieces.

The first piece to my Country, the second piece to my battalion, the third piece to my mother so that she may remember her son.

The fourth piece to by girlfriend so that she can remember her first love.  And the fifth piece to the mountains so that it can be covered in roses.

Valentino….One of the Kings of Italian Design April 5, 2012

I recently watched Valentino, The Last Emperor – a documentary that chronicled “the dazzling and dramatic closing act of the last true couturier’s celebrated career” and touched upon the history of this great designer of haute couture.  Of course, I had always heard of Valentino, but honestly, I don’t think that I ever really knew any of his pieces.  His style was elegant – it was unique – and it was beautiful.  His use of fabrics, and the way he created those one of a kind touches on each of his creations, definitely put him at the top of the fashion design world.  His creations were very dressy and very formal, but also very wearable.  When someone needed an elegant outfit (without regard to price), Valentino could deliver!

The fashion house still exists, but it is corporately owned (and actually has been for a very long time, even when Valentino was still designing).  Among his most notable clients was Liz Taylor and Jackie Kennedy Onassis.  This is the incredible wedding gown designed for Jackie!

The movie touches on the relationship between Valentino and his business and lifetime partner, Giancarlo Giammetti.  The two have been involved romantically and in business for over 50 years, and it was the combination of the two together that created the great Valentino name.  Valentino was the artist and creator, while Giancarlo was the anchor that held the company, and Valentino, to the ground.

Any Della Robbia’s in Your Neighborhood? March 21, 2012

The other day at a consignment shop, I found a ceramic wall statue with a white face and brightly colored fruits surrounding the head.  It reminded me of a Della Robbia-type of ceramic.

In reality, Della Robbia really only made religious plaques…but the brightly colored flowers is what reminded me of the style.  And this led to my investigation into the ceramics called Della Robbia’s.  Lo and behold, so many examples of Della Robbia’s started popping up all over the place.  Walking around Los Gatos, near St. Mary’s Catholic Church, I saw a wall plaque.  On the side wall of St. Nicholas Church in Los Altos was another one.  At the convent at Dominican College in San Rafael – yet another!  It’s amazing how you begin to notice art when you are conscious of it.  I have walked by those plaques in Los Gatos and Los Altos millions of times and never paid any attention to them.   Last weekend, while visiting the Victorian Avant Garde exhibit at the Palace of the Legion of Honor in San Francisco, I came face to face with one as I was walking through the museum to get to the exhibit.  This was an original one by the famed Andrea Della Robbia!

In my own  collection, I have two Della Robbia’s.

This one is for sale in my shop here.

The other one is a family heirloom which holds meaning for me.  It belonged to my husband’s grandmother and graced her walls for many years.  It is very old and I’m lucky to have it as a treasured possession.

In the tiny, unassuming town of Radicofani, Tuscany, can be found four Della Robbia masterpieces in their church.

The locals believe that Andrea Della Robbia hid his formula of glazing terra cotta in one of their statues.  They have even gone to the extreme of xraying the statues, but to no avail.  Since the only way to see if the document spelling out the secret formula lies within in one of the pieces would require breaking it, they have decided to leave it hidden for now!  The technique seems to have been carried down through the ages just fine.

Andrea Della Robbia was one of the most important ceramic artists of Renaissance Florence.  He learned the technique of glazing terra cotta from his uncle, Luca Della Robbia, and perfected the technique in his own studio.  This technique gained a lot of popularity because his altar pieces could be made more colorful and at a lesser expense than marble altarpieces – and they were MUCH lighter to transport.  His statues and plaques have the distinctive blue background with the white reliefs of Jesus, Mary, Joseph and the Saints.  At times, the plaques are surround by colorful fruits and flowers. Today, several ceramic studios in Italy make these beautiful plaques.

Italy is Always Around Me February 28, 2012

When my mom was a little girl in Italy, long before the world of the internet and fast airplanes, whenever someone wanted to say “get lost” they would say “vai a California” (go to California!).  Back then, California was as far away as the moon!  Luckily, technology has improved and Italy and California are just a 13-15 hour plane ride away.  You can wake up in California and go to sleep in Italy (or vice versa).  The world has become a much smaller place.  We can SKYPE with our loved ones on the other side of the world – see their faces – hear their voices!  It’s a true wonder

Even though the world is much smaller, travelling back and forth between Italy and California takes time and money.  It’s not something that we can do on a routine basis – it still remains a special trip and one that takes planning.  Luckily, though, I have many reminders of Italy in my own vicinities!

Excellent Italian Restaurants rivalling those found in Italy

Wonderful Enoteca’s serving Italian wines

Beautiful Italian architecture

Villa Montalvo, Saratoga CA

Shops selling Italian products

Italian Fashion Houses

Gucci at Santana Row

Snow….Snow…and More Snow! February 7, 2012

Italy, and a lot of Europe, has been covered in record snowfall this year.  Pictures and pictures of famous sites covered in snow have been appearing all over the media.  Rome received a record amount of snow – the most they’ve gotten in over 26 years!  The Cinque Terre has been a winter wonderland – the beauty of the white snow surrounded by the warm sepia toned houses perched on the hills has been better than a postcard!  But, as I recall, the January I spent in Italy in 2009 brought with it more snow than they had had in over 20 years.  I think that was the beginning of the new winter trend – snow, snow…and more snow.

Scenes along the Shores of Lago Maggiore

The Duomo with its “Snow” Frosting 

….and the Castello Sforzesco

Snow covered Santa Maria delle Grazie 

I Wouldn’t Want to Be in His Shoes…. January 17, 2012

29 passengers still missing; 6 dead….that is the latest count of the tragedy on board the Costa Concordia when it ran aground on the Isola del Giglio on January 12th.  The huge ship still sits precariously on the rocks which surround this tiny island, and concerns are mounting now for the environmental impact this accident may have on the delicate ecosystem of the Tuscan Archipelago if the thousands of gallons of fuel leak out of the vessel.  Divers are still continuing their work in the hopes of finding some of the missing.  It’s still pretty unclear what happened that night and why the captain maneuvered the boat so close to the island.  Eye witnesses from Giglio said that they had never seen a cruise ship come so close to the shores.  One speculation is that the captain veered off course to give the islanders a closer look at the boat (perhaps someone had asked him to do it…), but until someone from the deck sheds some light on what was going on up there, we won’t know exactly.  The Black Box has been retrieved, so a clue as to the navigational mistake will be found.  So many questions are being raised in this incident, but one of the main ones is why the captain abandoned the ship prior to all his passengers being led to safety.  He was seen by one passenger, who was still on deck and assisting others, leaving the boat, wrapped in a blanket, on a lifeboat.

In today’s Corriere della Sera, the conversation between Captain Schettino and an officer from the Italian Coast Guard was released.  In it, the officer is getting very agitated and orders the Captainn back to his boat.  Schettino finds lots of excuses not to reboard the boat.  Below are the highlights of that conversation:

De Falco: «Sono De Falco da Livorno, parlo con il comandante? I am De Falco from Livorno.  Am I speaking to the commander?

Schettino: «Sì, buonasera comandante De Falco» Yes, good evening, commander De Falco.

De Falco: «Mi dica il suo nome per favore» Please tell me your name.

Schettino: «Sono il comandante Schettino, comandante» I am the commander Schettino, commander.

De Falco: «Schettino? Ascolti Schettino. Ci sono persone intrappolate a bordo. Adesso lei va con la sua scialuppa sotto la prua della nave lato dritto. C’è una biscaggina. Lei sale su quella biscaggina e va a bordo della nave. Va a bordo e mi riporta quante persone ci sono. Le è chiaro? Io sto registrando questa comunicazione comandante Schettino…». Schettino?  Listen Schettino.  There are persons trapped on board.  Now you go with your lifeboat under the bow of the ship on the starboard side.  There is a small ladder.  Go up the ladder and go on board the ship.  Go on board and report to me how many people there are.  Is that clear?  I am recording this conversation commander Schettino…

Schettino: «Comandante le dico una cosa…» Commander, let me tell you one thing.

De Falco: «Parli a voce alta. Metta la mano davanti al microfono e parli a voce più alta, chiaro?». Please speak louder.  Put your hand in front of the microphone and speak louder.  Clear?

Schettino: «In questo momento la nave è inclinata…». In this moment the ship is inclined.

De Falco: «Ho capito. Ascolti: c’è gente che sta scendendo dalla biscaggina di prua. Lei quella biscaggina la percorre in senso inverso, sale sulla nave e mi dice quante persone e che cosa hanno a bordo. Chiaro? Mi dice se ci sono bambini, donne o persone bisognose di assistenza. E mi dice il numero di ciascuna di queste categorie. E’ chiaro? Guardi Schettino che lei si è salvato forse dal mare ma io la porto… veramente molto male… le faccio passare un’anima di guai. Vada a bordo, cazzo!» I undersand.  Listen:  There are people coming down that ladder on the bow.  You go to that ladder and go the opposite way, go on board the ship and tell me how many people and what they have on board.  Clear?  You tell me if there are children, women or people needing assistance.  And you tell me how many in each category.  Is that clear?  Look, Schettino, you may have saved yourself from the sea, but I will cause you heaps of trouble.  Go on board, (swearword)! 

Schettino: «Comandante, per cortesia…» Commander, please.

De Falco: «No, per cortesia… lei adesso prende e va a bordo. Mi assicuri che sta andando a bordo…». No, please.  Go on board now.  Assure me that you are going on board.

Schettino: «Io sto andando qua con la lancia dei soccorsi, sono qua, non sto andando da nessuna parte, sono qua…» I am going right now with the emergency launch.  I am here, I am not going anywhere, I am here….

De Falco: «Che sta facendo comandante?» What are you doing, commander?

Schettino: «Sto qua per coordinare i soccorsi…» I am here coordinating the emergency effort.

De Falco: «Che sta coordinando lì? Vada a bordo. Coordini i soccorsi da bordo. Lei si rifiuta? What are you coordinating?  Go on board.  Coordinate the effort on board.  Do you refuse? 

Schettino: «No no non mi sto rifiutando». No, I am not refusing.

De Falco: «Lei si sta rifiutando di andare a bordo comandante?? Mi dica il motivo per cui non ci va?» You are refusing to board, commander?  Can you tell me why you are not going?

Schettino: «Non ci sto andando perché ci sta l’altra lancia  che si è fermata…».  I am not going because the other launch has stopped.

De Falco: «Lei vada a bordo, è un ordine. Lei non deve fare altre valutazioni.  Lei ha dichiarato l’abbandono nave, adesso comando io. Lei vada a bordo! E’ chiaro? Non mi sente?  Vada, mi chiami direttamente da bordo. Ci sta il mio aerosoccorritore lì». You go on board, it is an order.  You don’t have to make any other decisions.  You have declared the abandon of the ship, now I command you.  You go on board!  Is that clear?  Don’t you hear me?  Go.  Call me directly once you are on board.  My air rescuer is there.

Schettino: «Dove sta il suo soccorritore?» Where is your rescuer?

De Falco: «Il mio soccorritore sta a prua. Avanti. Ci sono già dei cadaveri Schettino». My rescuer is at the bow. Go.  There are already some bodies, Schettino.

Schettino: «Quanti cadaveri ci sono?» How many bodies are there?

De Falco: «Non lo so.. Uno lo so. Uno l’ho sentito. Me lo deve dire lei quanti ce ne sono, Cristo». I don’t know.  One I know of.  You have to tell me, Christ!

Schettino: «Ma si rende conto che è buio e qui non vediamo nulla …». But do you realize that it is dark and you can’t see anything?

De Falco: «E che vuole tornare a casa Schettino? E’ buio e vuole tornare a casa? Salga sulla prua della nave tramite la biscaggina e mi dica cosa si può fare, quante persone ci sono e che bisogno hanno. Ora!».  So do you want to go home, Schettino?  It’s dark and you want to go home?  Go on the bow of the ship with the ladder and tell me what we can do, how many people there are and what needs they have.  Now!

Schettino: «(…) Sono assieme al comandante in seconda». I am with my second in command.

De Falco: «Salite tutti e due allora. (…) Lei e il suo secondo salite a bordo, ora. E’ chiaro?». Then both of you go on board.  You and your second go on board, now.  Is that clear?

Schettino: «Comandà, io voglio salire a bordo, semplicemente che l’altra scialuppa qua… ci sono gli  altri soccorritori, si è fermata e si è istallata lì, adesso ho chiamato altri soccorritori…». Commander, I want to go on board the other boat here.  There are other rescuers, they have stopped and installed themselves there, now I have called other rescue personnel.

De Falco: «Lei è un’ora che mi sta dicendo questo. Adesso va a bordo, va a B-O-R-D-O!. E mi viene subito a dire quante persone ci sono». You have been telling me this for an hour.  Now go on board, go ON BOARD!  And tell me right away how many people there are.

Schettino: «Va bene comandante» Very well, commander.

De Falco: «Vada, subito!» Go, immediately!

Tragedy on the Sea January 14, 2012

Last night, as passengers aboard the elegant Costa Concordia luxury cruise liner were enjoying dinner and shows, tragedy struck.  The boat had left the port of Civitavecchia just hours earlier and was sailing up the western coast of Italy to Savona, when it hit rock near the tiny Isola del Giglio off the coast of Tuscany.  At first, passengers were told that it was just mechanical issues that caused the lights to go out, but soon it became evident that this was truly an emergency when the boat began listing to its side.  Panic began to ensue, and passengers rushed to the decks for instruction.  But, ala Titanic, the emergency was not handled as it should have been and at least 3 people have already lost their lives.  Evidently, the passengers had not been drilled yet on emergency evacuations (that was to happen this morning), and the crew didn’t seem to be prepared for the emergency, either.  Lifeboats were not immediately put into the water, and only after some seasoned cruise -goers raised a stink, did the crew begin to employ life saving measures.  Some passengers jumped into the icy waters, while others waited for emergency evacuation by the Coast Guard, Navy, and Air Force.  Most of the 4000 people on board the ship made it to safety, but about 50 are still unaccounted for.

Once on shore, the tiny island of about 1700 residents was inundated by emergency personnel and evacuated passengers.  The passengers were mostly dressed in light clothing and needed to be taken care of.  Some were taken to a middle school where they were given blankets and some warm tea and bread.  But the mayor of Isola del Giglio implored to his residents “If you have a roof, please open your doors!”

Currently, most of the passengers have been taken to Santo Stefano for emergency treatment and they will later be taken to Rome to be housed in hotels.  Of the missing, they are hoping that they are being housed in people’s homes in Giglio.  The capsized boat sits off the coast of the tiny island, and engineers are already saying that they do not know how they will move the ship because of its location.  Right now, though, the main focus is the well-being of the passengers and making sure that everyone can be accounted for.

I Castelli di Cannero January 5, 2012

The town of Cannero is pictured here on a series of notecards I currently have on my website, Tesoro Treasures.

A short distance from the shores of the ritzy and gorgeous Cannero Riviera on Lago Maggiore are the ruins of an old and delapidated medieval castle of which I would have loved to have taken some pictures of had they not been covered in scaffolding.  The castles are being restored, but this restoration is the subject of much controversy.  Evidently, the restorations are not being done in accordance with the strict historical guidelines of preservation.  The historical societies have raised alarm because the buildings are being restored just for the sake of restoration, without paying any heed to restoring them to preserve the architecture.  There are fears that the castles are being ruined and will be lost forever.  Therefore, the restorations have come to halt until a resolution can be reached.  Meanwhile, the cranes and the scaffolds sit on the island and ruin any picture taking possibility.  Fortunately, there is the internet which allows us to find beautiful pictures sans construction equipment!

Courtesy of distrettolaghi.it

The Cannero Riviera is a romantic destination with lights twinkling on the lake and a gorgeous promenade made just for strolling.  But Cannero hasn’t always been such an idyllic place.  The castles hide a dark past, and I’m sure living in Cannero during the 14th century was anything similar to romantic.  These were times of turf wars, and allegiances were preserved with force.  The castles, also known as the “Malpaga Castles”,  were places of torture and crime.  They were the base of the wicked Mazzarditi Family who were known for horrible raids on those that didn’t vow allegiance to them.  After the Mazzarditi’s came the Visconti’s, only to lose control to Milan’s powerful Sforza’s family. Finally, in the 16th century, the Borromeo Family (of Isola Bella fame) took over control of the castles and erected the Vitaliana Fortress on the site to protect the area from invasion by the Swiss.  Cannero did not gain its romantic reputation until the 18th century when it became a popular holiday destination for British royalty and other dignitaries.  Winston Churchill and Garibaldi were also known to have spent time here.

Places such as the Castles of Cannero always fascinate me – what now seems so idyllic and peaceful have violent histories with stories that intrigue and captivate the imagination. They are  living history museums of which I never cease to tire of.